31 Jul France : Cosmetics that are dangerous for the health : why silence in the ranks ?
June 21, 2017, Le Canard enchaîné published an article which, under the title “cosmetics poisoned under the high protection of the budgets of the pub, “noted the” deafening silence of the women’s press “on the investigation was released on 7 June by the association UFC-que choisir who compiled the list of” 1000 cosmetic concern… but still selling it “, of which 23 are downright off-the-law. Useful precision, the results published in this study are not the first, since they complement those that the UFC-que choisir has published on 22 February 2016. The substances in question are used in different products of care of the person to which the major players are the advertisers almost exclusive to very many publications .
What is the fate of these publications have reserved for this information ? To find out, one has to see the treatment of this topic by “the jewels” like Cosmopolitan and Marie Claire, She and Version Fémina, Madame Figaro, Marie France and Vogue.
Silences and avoidances
Almost all of the titles not to mention neither the survey UFC-que Choose, nor one that evokes The Canard enchaîné June 21, .
No traces in all of these publications of the survey to be very comprehensive, which consisted of fourteen episodes, spread out over five months, published by the site “The days” on the (bad) practices of the cosmetics industry, or on the racket held with clients, including l’oréal and described by François Meunier, the leader of Alsis Council, associate professor of finance at ENSAE ParisTech, in an article published may 17, 2016 on the site Telos, “L’oréal and the competition by advertising” : “This competition [between groups] means fights on the marketing, who are paid by the consumer in the form of higher prices. The drain on the purchasing power is very important. ”
Two exceptions, however, merit to be mentioned.
– Marie Claire has published three articles devoted to the toxic chemicals present in the cosmetics 22 February, 10 march and 8 June. This last article – ” UFC-que choisir alert on 1000 dangerous products 23 of “outside the law” ” – is devoted, as its title indicates, the investigation of What to Choose.
– Madame Figaro, April 21, mentions a few lines to this survey. That weighs, however, an article quietly put on a website against the avalanche of promotion (including by convening a meeting of representatives of the l’oréal for doing so) for these same cosmetics that can be found especially in products of beauty ? Ask the question is already to answer.
These remarkable exceptions, remain rather discrete as they are published only on the websites of the two magazines, without any grip specific for easy access.
And this is not all.
– If Madame Figaro mentions the survey of the UFC-That to Choose, it is very briefly and at a turn in the article of 21 February, the main purpose of which is : “to Create its natural beauty products : 3 recipes ideas home.” And on 8 June, the same magazine showcases another… investigation, much more favorable because it bypasses the critical toxic products : the one published in issue # 189 out-of-series of July 2017 of the national institute of consumption (INC), entitled : “Cosmetic, non-toxic. Guide products are healthy and safe “.
– Marie Claire, meanwhile, in his article in the march 10 – “Cosmetics and toxic substances : the point on these products can accuse” – defuses partially this criticism by asking for “the lighting of Sophie Strobel, a biologist cosmetologist” who démine the field, and whose connections with “the cosmetic industry [in which it] has been evolving for fifteen years” (as she mentions on her blog dedicated to make-up) are carefully concealed from the readers/users. The use of “experts” allegedly scientific you never know if they are related or not, directly or indirectly, the sector is a constant for all securities. The deception is so effective that the status of interested parties gives them a special authority in the eyes of readers turned into customers, supposed to do “take off” sales, so the advertising rates charged to advertisers. An advertising process which does not say its name, among other…
And more generally, the “female” continue their effort , aimed at “greening” the approach of cosmetics. An approach that devotes “The observatory of cosmetics” when he puts in value this niche market : “the natural cosmetics and organic is always good. […] In France, the second european market of cosmetics certified with 463 million euros in 2016, the organic cosmetics is claiming a share of the global market share of 4.3 %. The growth is sustained and is accelerating, driven by the younger generations who buy, on average, more organic products than those aged 50 and older.  ”
This tendency to value the “organic” fits perfectly into the strategy of their advertisers. On April 24, 2017, the newspaper Les Echos stresses that “for L’oréal, use of organic ingredients has become a priority for the past ten years” .
Even so, this confusion between advertising and editorial is not a novelty in the sector of ” female “. Thus, Evelyne Sullerot, a sociologist and co-founder of family planning  was already in… 1962, in an article published in issue number 4 of the Cahiers of the advertising, ” women’s Press. A sociological approach “, noting that already the weight extremely pregnant with the first.
To try to understand such a discretion on the survey by UFC-que choisir, a return on the influence of advertising on the “female,” and especially the influence of advertising on cosmetics is required.
The grip of the cosmetics industry…
This issue is of even more interest than ” the segment of the female remains […] the first in advertising revenue ! “ and found all of the titles mentioned above among the 20 major titles, force-fed advertising in 2015 (according to a document published by the site MLP).
The cosmetic sector and the relevant advertising occupy a place of choice. Only for France, in 2015, the turnover of this sector accounts for 11.2 billion euros, according to the federation of enterprises of beauty (FEBEA), the retail sale of the products market of beauty and personal care is estimated, according to Statista, the portal stats to 12.8 billion euros.
At the global level, the figures are staggering. François Meunier, in the article already mentioned, says that “the actors have in average 15% of their turnover in advertising budget, this represents a total of 57 billion euros (110 billion if it is 29%) at a global level” .
It is enough to say the size of the cake available to the “female” .
So, we understand why Aline Kuhn, ” counselor media in mediaschneider, about advertising tangible “, says in the publication switzerland dedicated, as its name suggests, the “swiss media” in December 2014 : “Imagine a media that is feminine without advertising. Unthinkable . The Swiss, of course, is not the only country concerned !
Who, indeed, can be found in the “Top 100 advertisers in France,” according to the magazine Strategies ? Several giants of the cosmetics, such as L’oréal Paris, Gemey, Maybelline and Garnier, Lascad (L’oréal Group), Chanel perfume, Christian Dior, Sephora Parfums (LVMH), where the German Beiersdorff (Nivéa, Eucelin, Labello, La Prairie), their “milk cows” !
… The influence of advertising in general
When the sale of its stake in Marie Claire, the Holding Evelyne Prouvost, the release of the l’oréal dated February 20, 2001 – “The l’oréal disposes of Marie-Claire” – explained : “L’oréal has taken this decision in view of the excellent relations the Group has always maintained with Mrs Evelyne Prouvost and also the level of the financial offer from the Holding Evelyne Prouvost. “The excellence of the relations has never ceased since, as pointed out by Mona Chollet in 2009 in an article titled” L’oréal : with the press, a romance without clouds “, published in The diplomatic World and reproduced on the website of Acrimed.
And since January 2004, an article published on our website – ” for “Beauty” : the editors of women’s magazines even worse than the advertising ” – pointed out the tendency of journalists to relay communication of the giants of the cosmetics industry…
The influence of advertising is reflected by the multiplication of methods that mix both the direct advertising is identified, the “tips” and other “good ideas” of the journalists of the magazines, well-known personalities, “muses” of big brands and other bloggers “beauty,” extolling the merits of all these products : indeed, the site LSA was also noted in June 2012 that “this relay media proves to be very effective for brands in terms of visibility” .
Not to mention the annual ceremonies of delivery of awards by the “female” to the “best” of them in great masses organized in palaces or theatres prestigious ” Elle International Beauty Awards 2017 “, ” Price of Beauty Stars “Madame Figaro “, ” The Grand prize of the well-being, Marie-France “, ” prix international du parfum Marie Claire “, ” The price of excellence, beauty Marie Claire “.